Plod's Lycian Log: Countdown: 6!

Istanbul! 5am, 24th March

I've been awake for 20 mins already, and now my first Call to Prayer is in progress. Finding it interesting...

I arrived in Istanbul last night at 9.10pm. Getting a Visa was easy and took no time - well, only as much time as I needed to find my Euros. Payment (45E) could only be in Euros or American dollars - not TL, and boy, was that guy sick of saying that to people!

Next, the queue for Passport Control was crazy. Took over an hour to get through, and by then, the electronic baggage claim info for my flight had expired. Had to find a Turkish Airlines office for carousel info and then claim my pack from unclaimed luggage. So, everyone after me, and no doubt some before me, would have had to do the same.

Couldn't be bothered doing the SIM card thing, and found a cab. My Airbnb host, Ahmet, had provided me with written instructions, in Turkish, for the driver, as well as his phone number - very much appreciated!

We hurtled into town. At 11pm on a Sunday, the road was fairly clear and, with some impressive ducking and weaving, my driver was able to maintain his 100km/hr momentum for much of the way. Near the city, the road was festooned with strings of overhead flags and enormous posters, pertaining to the upcoming local government elections. (45TL to Sultanahmet, plus tip.) Looking forward to exploring later.

My room here in Ahmet's house is interesting - big, comfortable and I guess traditional; I hope my photos will do it justice. The walls are all original brick; lighting is by Ahmet-original lamps; a small fireplace teases.... I have a table and chairs and the wherewithal to make tea and coffee, and I have a window/door which opens onto a sizeable garden. The shared bathroom presents an interesting cultural challenge: in a space of not much more than 1 sq m, a Turkish toilet takes up half the room and a shower the other half. It opens into the tiny, L-shaped kitchen! There are special shoes, like crocs, for the toilet and the used paper must go in a bucket. Hmmm.....

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(This text is by Ronja, Ahmet's 5-yr-old daughter. I respectfully include her carefully considered account of our time together in the garden this morning, over breakfast. It tells of our beautiful sunny day, the story books we read in English and the kittens playing in the grass.)

One of my first chores this morning was to get my phone happening. While studying my map (of course!) I was approached by a smooth, skilled hustler, adept in English, who volunteered to translate for me in a nearby Turkcell shop.The upshot is that I have a new phone, purchased from his cousin in a Turkcell shop across town - a basic little Samsung that I don't need to register, which can't do anything but make calls. How lucky am I!?? Anyway, my phone allowed me to connect with Lalitah and Utsav - Mia's friends - and for that, I love it.

Lalitah proposed meeting in Taksim Square (a 40-min tram ride + funicular ride away) at 6pm. Initially daunted by the prospect of negotiating the tram system at such a late hour, I was in fact composing an email excuse, from my foetal position on the bed, when Lalitah rang. To my surprise, I heard myself say, in a phoney cheerful voice, "OK, I'll be there!"

The phoney voice lied. After travelling 30 mins in the wrong direction, it was clear I was going to be late, so we met at the Galata Tower instead. After a coffee together, I joined them, and their young friend, Dilek, on a work-related exploration of the Beyoglu district of Istanbul. What fun! Lalitah (Danish) and Utsav (a suspiciously red-headed Turk) are designing tour itineraries for Danish visitors, interested in exploring the spiritual dimension of Istanbul. Their first trial tour will be next week. Dilek (Danish born and raised to Turkish parents) is helping them and at the same time working towards an academic qualification in Tourism. Tonight's task was to research fortune-telling cafe's. Dilek led us to the ones of interest and we inspected each, assessing ambiance, quirkiness, authenticity, variety of fortune-telling media, English translation possibilities.....

I loved tagging along with them in this one little stage of their adventure. Dilek is so excited to be exploring her cultural heritage in a way that fascinates her. Lalitah, like me, is sitting on the edge of her courage, where it is frayed, or crumbly.....