Plod's Lycian Log: Kusadasi

The imam in this town fancies himself as a crooner - long calls to prayer with many sustained notes and lots of tremolo - now, 5am....

Kusadasi is a very attractive and prosperous-looking town, probably due, in large part, to the numbers of cruise ships that visit. I think the carpet sellers, the jewellery shops and the traditional pottery outlets do a roaring trade from wealthy tourists in a frenzy to spend and anxious to collect stunning works of art, during their brief time in port.

I took a day trip by ferry to the Greek island of Samos, 1.5 hours, and 40Euros, away from Kusadasi. It was a strange place to arrive at, with no information or services for visitors. I asked at the first travel agency I came to, if I could get a map of town (No, unless I wanted to buy one for 7 Euros somewhere else). Well, could she point me in the direction of places of interest to visit? (Certainly, there is a garden behind the square and a museum a bit further on.) Hmmm, can I take a bus tour of the island perhaps? (No, there are only two services per day that do the whole island - one left early this morning and the next one leaves at 4pm.) Is there a Tourist Information Office, perhaps? (Yes, up there.)

I should have guessed by the small number of us on the ferry that others knew this place was not geared up for tourists. But there were enough of us to fill a minibus and, had one been waiting at the terminal, I'd certainly have paid 10 Euros for a tour and overview of the island. The only service offered to visitors was car and motor scooter hire.

I felt annoyed (with myself, for assuming rather than researching - again) and so implemented Strategy No 1: Climb a hill. I find it calming to climb the steps up through the town, contouring the hill as I go, noticing the details of people's houses and taking in the expanding panoramora. A measure of peace restored, I headed, without much hope, for the Tourist Information Office. I never got there, though, because, on the way I found the Bus Station and jumped on a bus headed for the village of Pythagorion, on the other side of the island. Perfect! It's a pretty harbour village with an intact castle/museum (free entry) and lots of picture postcard charm. I spent a few pleasant hours there, had lunch in a waterfront restaurant and returned to the main town in good time for the return ferry at 5pm.

Today I'm having a lazy day, exploring Kusadasi. Apparently there is a National Park nearby, with good long walks - and I'm thinking I might just stay another day and visit, as I need a dose of natural, unspoilt beauty. In these holiday towns, there is lots of charm - often blue and white - but it's mostly very contrived, with rival establishments trying to outdo each other to capture the tourist's eye and dollar.

My Airbnb hostess also knows of a traditional hamam, guaranteed to delight, at nearby Selcuk. A young Aussie couple staying at this Pension went yesterday and loved it. I think I will have to try again, this afternoon - this time knowing it's an authentic experience.