Plod's Lycian Log: Day 14: Bogazcik to Aperlae

Tuesday 15th April, 2014

Well, having resigned myself to camping tonight, I have managed to avoid it again.....

Executing Plan B this morning, I was at the otogar at 8.30am, but dolmus didn't leave till 9.30am. It dropped me at the first turnoff, I hitched to the second turnoff and walked from the third turnoff to Bogacik. Reached Bogacik at 10.45am and was welcomed by the Imam. He offered me some tea at Ali's Pansiyon (there is accommodation here - I wouldn't have had to camp!) but no-one was home to make it. So we walked together as far as the Lycian Way signs on the edge of town, without seeing another soul, and he wished me well....

I had some issues finding my way to the Apollonia ruins. The waymarks seemed to lead me in a circle - although I did abandon them when chased by a dog, and was happy to find myself back on the track I'd been on 20 mins earlier. (There was no way I was going back to look for the last waymark.) I lost interest in visiting the ruins and followed the waymarks fairly easily to Aperlae. Having visited the Aperlae ruins just two days ago by boat, it was nice to arrive this time from the mountains by an ancient Lycian path.

I stopped for a pack-rest and water re-fill at a strange cafe/camping/accommodation place near Aperlae. There were other walkers there (a self-contained couple, heads together, studying their map), and I thought about staying, but it was early (2.45pm) and it wasn't such a nice place to stop. Walked on to Yoruk's Fisherman's Inn on the jetty where our gulet had tied up the other day, and stopped there for a coffee. Some yachties had just arrived - a retired English couple, Alan and Suzanne, their son, Joe, and his girlfriend, Anna. Enjoyed a nice long coffee break with them and decided not to bother walking on. That leaves me with just a three-hour walk tomorrow to Ucagiz.

Ramazan Yoruk (58) has lived here for 30 years running this place. He has a summer income, catering for walkers and boaties, but seems to be quite self-sufficient here, with fruit trees, a big veggie garden, chooks, a pond of fish, goats.....Alas, poor Yoruk's wife died three years ago from a brain tumour but he has a new partner, Gunay (46) - a warm, chuckly and contented presence. The yachties joined me for dinner and Ramazan BBQ'd us fish he caught himself. What a nice evening it was! There is no power or Internet but at this moment, as I climb into bed, I want for nothing.....